How (Not) to Consolidate Debt

Katherine Martin • July 27, 2016

By Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance.

The point: it doesn’t matter what method you use to pay off debt, or if you use any method at all. What matters is that you stop creating new debt.

It’s out there: the mathematically precise, strictly rational formula for paying off your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit balance. It’s not too hard to calculate the most efficient way to allocate every dollar and wring the most interest-busting bang out of each buck.

If that doesn’t work for you – and let’s be honest, it often doesn’t  – there’s a psychologically motivating method that throws math out the window and concentrates on tickling your brainpan with the momentum of every dollar that’s paid off – like the eponymous snowball rolling down a hill.

Proponents of these two camps are territorial and permanently at odds. (I’m just spitballing here, but I imagine it has to do with not being able to live inside somebody else’s brain and see how it works, like so many other disputes.)

Frankly, I don’t care how you pay off debt, so long as you simultaneously stop creating more.

Enter debt consolidation. Often a polarizing bone of contention between the two camps, debt consolidation – for those three of you in the back of the room unfamiliar with the concept – is when a lender gives you the money to pay back all of your other debt that’s scattered across the country and pay them back instead. They win by getting a new loan on the books, and stealing market share from the competition. You win by bringing down your overall interest rate.

What’s to argue with, right?

This is what to argue with: there’s a teeny-tiny window of opportunity in which debt consolidation is a powerful tool to bring your debt-free date closer and eat vast chunks out of the total amount of interest you’ll pay. That window of opportunity is open for about half an hour, and when it closes, it’s so hard to reopen that it might as well be painted shut.

If from the outset you don’t commit to a payment that is equal to or more than the amount you were paying on your unconsolidated debt, and that will get your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit paid off in less time than they were originally amortized for, then you’re not paying down your debt, you’re just moving it around.

If you don’t take a long, hard look at how you got into debt in the first place, and – from minute one of your newly consolidated life – take measured, calculated steps to not do it again, those credit card balances are going to creep back up again. You’ll find yourself in the same office, maybe even in front of the same banker, signing a new set of loan papers for a new consolidation loan three years down the road.

I began my career in banking in the heyday of debt consolidation lending. The amount of new unsecured dollars added to our lending portfolio was a huge component of our sales scorecard, and while the focus shifted to include a wider spectrum of  product sales after 2008, banks are still hungry for your debt consolidation dollars. *

Folks, I’ve seen a lot of debt consolidation train wrecks, and about five of them where due to circumstances beyond the borrower’s control. The other 7,256,219 were due to the window slamming shut, either because the borrower didn’t know or didn’t care about it.

I’d love to blame the bank for it (you know I would), but I can’t. Yes, the banker you sit across from has incentive to talk you into stupid stuff that’ll not only shut the window of opportunity, but nail it closed and board it up too. (“Increasing your cash flow” is a phrase that comes to mind.)

But down in the land of brass tacks, you just signed a loan to pay off other loans. If you weren’t thinking about how you got to this point at this point, when else are you going to think about it?

If it was important enough to you to take action, why isn’t it important enough to change your behaviour?

* They’d like those dollars to be in the form of a secured line of credit, though, and will sell you on the fact that you can consolidate again and again and again, without ever having to go back into the bank to do it.

This article was written by Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance and originally appeared on Spring the Blog here.  

Katherine Martin


Origin Mortgages

Phone: 1-604-454-0843
Email: 
kmartin@planmymortgage.ca
Fax: 1-604-454-0842


RECENT POSTS

By Katherine Martin • September 23, 2026
Why More Mortgage Options Matter—Especially for Assignment Purchases One of the biggest advantages of working with an independent mortgage professional is access to choice. Instead of being limited to one lender and one set of products, mortgage brokers work with multiple lenders—each with different guidelines, risk tolerances, and mortgage solutions. That flexibility becomes especially valuable when your situation doesn’t fit neatly into a “standard” box. A great example of this is purchasing new construction through an assignment contract . Why Assignment Purchases Can Be Challenging Assignment purchases are often viewed as higher risk by traditional lenders. Rather than declining these deals outright, many lenders quietly make them difficult by adding layers of conditions, restrictions, or uncertainty. This can lead to delays, frustration, or financing falling apart late in the process. The Good News There are lenders—available exclusively through the broker channel —that have clear, favourable policies for assignment purchases. With the right lender and proper planning, these transactions are absolutely doable. Typical Financing Requirements for Assignment Purchases While every situation is unique, many lenders that allow assignment financing look for the following: Standard purchase qualification, including income verification, credit, and down payment Assignments accepted at either the original purchase price or current market value Minimum 620 credit score , with no prior bankruptcies or consumer proposals The full down payment must come from the purchaser —seller incentives cannot be used Required Documentation To secure financing, lenders typically require: The original purchase agreement signed by all parties The MLS listing (if applicable) The assignment agreement signed by the builder, original purchaser, and new buyer Any side agreements outlining changes to the purchase price A full appraisal to confirm value This list isn’t exhaustive, but it highlights that while assignment purchases require more coordination, they are very achievable with the right lender and guidance. Final Thoughts Assignment contracts can open doors to great opportunities—but only if your financing supports the transaction. This is where access to multiple lenders and specialized policies makes a real difference. If you’re considering purchasing new construction through an assignment, or if you’d like to explore more traditional purchase options, feel free to connect anytime. I’d be happy to walk you through the mortgage products available and help you choose an option that doesn’t limit your financing possibilities.
By Katherine Martin • September 16, 2026
How Mortgage Payment Frequency Affects What You Pay Over Time You’ve probably heard the saying that there are two certainties in life: death and taxes. When it comes to your mortgage, there’s really just one certainty—you’ll repay what you borrow, plus interest. What is flexible, though, is how often you make your mortgage payments. And that choice can have a meaningful impact on how quickly you pay down your mortgage and how much interest you pay over time. The Six Mortgage Payment Frequencies Most lenders offer the following payment options: Monthly – 12 payments per year Semi-monthly – 24 payments per year Bi-weekly – 26 payments per year Weekly – 52 payments per year Accelerated bi-weekly – 26 payments per year Accelerated weekly – 52 payments per year Standard Payment Frequencies The first four options are designed to align with how you get paid. For example: Paid monthly? Monthly mortgage payments may make sense. Paid every two weeks? Bi-weekly payments can align nicely with your cash flow. With these standard options, regardless of how often you pay, the total amount paid over the year is the same —it’s simply divided into more frequent payments. What Makes “Accelerated” Payments Different Accelerated payments work differently—and this is where the real savings happen. With accelerated bi-weekly or accelerated weekly payments, you’re paying a slightly higher amount each time. That extra money goes directly toward reducing your mortgage principal, which lowers the interest you’ll pay over the life of the mortgage. A Simple Example Let’s assume a $1,000 monthly mortgage payment: Monthly: $1,000 once per month = $12,000 per year Semi-monthly: $500 twice per month = $12,000 per year Bi-weekly: $1,000 × 12 ÷ 26 = $461.54 every two weeks = $12,000 per year Accelerated bi-weekly: $1,000 ÷ 2 = $500 every two weeks = $13,000 per year With accelerated bi-weekly payments, you effectively make two extra payments per year without having to think about it. Those extra payments reduce your principal faster, which lowers interest costs over time. Accelerated weekly payments work the same way—you just make smaller payments more frequently. Why This Matters Long Term While it’s difficult to calculate exact savings due to variables like interest rates, terms, and amortization changes, maintaining an accelerated payment schedule over the life of your mortgage can reduce your amortization by up to three years and save a significant amount of interest. The Bottom Line Accelerated payments are a simple, automatic way to lower your overall cost of borrowing—without needing to make lump-sum payments or drastically change your budget. If you’d like to see how different payment frequencies would impact your mortgage specifically, feel free to reach out anytime. I’d be happy to walk through the numbers with you and help you choose the option that fits your goals.